Perhaps it is due to the economic crises that Milan Fashion Week didn’t quite look as luxurious and flamboyant as we are used to. Some of the big names were pretty much disappointing like Gucci with a collection which was too simple and sporty, Marni which looked strangely oversimplified and almost amateur, and Jil Sander whose minimalism this time seemed substance- free and boring.
There was generally very little excitement, apart from the most awaited for Prada show which was a shocking mixture of printed murals, heavy embellishment and sport gear like footless socks and rubber high heels. Very colourful and new indeed! Miuccia Prada was inspired by femininity and power and hence there were allot of bejeweled outside bras in the collection. She invited muralists Miles ‘El Mac’ Gregor, Mesa, Gabriel Specter and Stinkfish and illustrators Jeanne Detallante and Pierre Mornet to create murals which were printed on dresses and coats, but also painted on the walls as a set design for the show.
Dolce & Gabbana Spring/Summer show was no less intriguing than the previous Autumn/Winter, only this time the theme was money. Since the designers were recently convicted for tax evasion, they turned their trouble into inspiration for the newest collection which, as some say, might be their last one. There were coin motifs, ancient world illustrations, kilometres of lace, as well as beautiful flower embellishments and it all culminated in the final walk with all the models dressed in gold.
Karl Lagerfeld made a stunning collection for Fendi which looks very futuristic with geometric mosaics and layers of chiffon topped up with fur details and leather jackets. Alberta Feretti also used allot of layering for her collection, although unlike Lagerfeld’s modern look, she interpreted this trend through a very girly and romantic collection inspired by folklore and cleverly combined stripes and ribbons with floral patterns. Giorgio Armani’s latest collection was also very feminine and dreamy with soft sea water colours, lots of shimmer and layering, as well as details like big flat hats and glittery scarves around necks.
However, the biggest excitement were new names such as Sicilian born designer Fausto Puglisi whose patrons are Anna Wintour and Dolce & Gabbana who put his collections in one of their stores. He made an exciting collection with biker jackets, crinolines, black leather studded bras, masculine shirts and feminine long skirts.
Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean supported by Giorgio Armani made a fun and colourful collection featuring big dresses, exotic prints and head scarves, while young designer Marco de Vicenzo awed the audience with his smart and romantic dresses with optic illusion prints.
Since Milan Fashion Week always predicts all the main trends, it seems that Spring/Summer 2014 will be all about strong prints, lace, sequins and beads, see-through materials, embroidery, sportswear and fur with colour palette ranging from white and pastel colours to deep blue and red. Styling is mostly nonchalant and undone with loose silhouettes and pieces of clothes effortlessly thrown on, and hair as well as make up looking ultra-natural. One of the key looks is an innocent girl which apparently wins the battle over the naughty one. This clash was portrayed at Moschino show with quirky concept of the two counterparts representing ‘good girl’ and ‘bad girl’.
Image credits: http://www.style.com